Soul Brother
www.eternalreturn.surf
Discover more from Eternal Return
An eclectic, esoteric collection of reflections on existence, surfing, wilderness experience, & culture
Continue reading
Kid, I see the history of surfing different than you. These footprints in the sand [he said pointing to the floorboards], they’re mine. Nobody else’s. I’d rather beg for forgiveness than ask for permission . . . I’ll tell you this: Mother Ocean is my God. Heaven’s my family and friends.
…Blowin’ Soul — PartII coming soon . .