Thoroughly enjoyed this article. It’s dives into and attempts to explain the sub culture of big wave surfers and gives a glimpse into the mindset and philosophy of those who pursue these waves and what drives them.
Mahalo Nui for the complimentary insight. I'm happy and encouraged that you enjoyed this piece, my first publication here on Substack. More to come. Aloha!
Thoroughly enjoyed this article. It’s dives into and attempts to explain the sub culture of big wave surfers and gives a glimpse into the mindset and philosophy of those who pursue these waves and what drives them.
Mahalo Nui for the complimentary insight. I'm happy and encouraged that you enjoyed this piece, my first publication here on Substack. More to come. Aloha!
👏👏👏👏👏 all those insomniac nights anticipating swells, paddling deep without a doubt knowing they will come. I want to read more.
Aloha! More to come . . .