reflections on a colossal waste of time
Thoroughly enjoyed this article. It’s dives into and attempts to explain the sub culture of big wave surfers and gives a glimpse into the mindset and philosophy of those who pursue these waves and what drives them.
👏👏👏👏👏 all those insomniac nights anticipating swells, paddling deep without a doubt knowing they will come. I want to read more.
Psychology of the Big Wave Rider
Thoroughly enjoyed this article. It’s dives into and attempts to explain the sub culture of big wave surfers and gives a glimpse into the mindset and philosophy of those who pursue these waves and what drives them.
👏👏👏👏👏 all those insomniac nights anticipating swells, paddling deep without a doubt knowing they will come. I want to read more.