November 13, 1996
This was an awesome read. Thank you.
Good story of a Big Day at Waimea!! Never rode it at the closing out level but can imagine it would be next level and adrenaline filled as well as scary!! Interesting knowing about board size in those conditions by the Master shaper and surfer Owl Chapman!! Also cool to hear about our Sunset Beach comrade Greg Russ also out that day!! Many a good day surfing with brother Greg and yourself!! Sorry to hear of Greg's passing this year! RIP Greg!! Thanks!
Incredible story! so cool! made me feel like I was there with you! Thanks for posting. total Warrior...
Your Facebook pics and posts keep me in touch with NS, but this is incredible writing and so inspirational. Keeps my dreams alive. For now surfing Woolacombe, that’s closest but very cold....but no doubt see you one day soon back on NS, In the meant time, I ll turn to Eternal Return for my daily reflection. Say hi to Roger. 🙏
This is why I signed up. These stories. It’s a place I’ll never go. At least not like that. It’s not my journey to take. I’m glad you went.