Good story of a Big Day at Waimea!! Never rode it at the closing out level but can imagine it would be next level and adrenaline filled as well as scary!! Interesting knowing about board size in those conditions by the Master shaper and surfer Owl Chapman!! Also cool to hear about our Sunset Beach comrade Greg Russ also out that day!! Many a good day surfing with brother Greg and yourself!! Sorry to hear of Greg's passing this year! RIP Greg!! Thanks!
Man, coming from you, that means a great deal. We do share the warrior spirit — Zen Bushido warriors. I plan to write about the warrior spirit as an inlet to successful, life-long big wave riding. When I do, I'll reach out and pick your brain (if you let me). A hui you, brother. Aloha
Your Facebook pics and posts keep me in touch with NS, but this is incredible writing and so inspirational. Keeps my dreams alive. For now surfing Woolacombe, that’s closest but very cold....but no doubt see you one day soon back on NS, In the meant time, I ll turn to Eternal Return for my daily reflection. Say hi to Roger. 🙏
Mahalo Nui, Petra. I'm very encouraged that you enjoy the writing and for the positive feedback. More to come. And I'll be sure to pass your Aloha on to Big Rog.
This was an awesome read. Thank you.
Good story of a Big Day at Waimea!! Never rode it at the closing out level but can imagine it would be next level and adrenaline filled as well as scary!! Interesting knowing about board size in those conditions by the Master shaper and surfer Owl Chapman!! Also cool to hear about our Sunset Beach comrade Greg Russ also out that day!! Many a good day surfing with brother Greg and yourself!! Sorry to hear of Greg's passing this year! RIP Greg!! Thanks!
Aloha Nick! Mahalo for the insights. There's something coming soon about our good friend and fallen warrior, Greg. Hana Hou!
Incredible story! so cool! made me feel like I was there with you! Thanks for posting. total Warrior...
Man, coming from you, that means a great deal. We do share the warrior spirit — Zen Bushido warriors. I plan to write about the warrior spirit as an inlet to successful, life-long big wave riding. When I do, I'll reach out and pick your brain (if you let me). A hui you, brother. Aloha
Cool! I am an open book, once again that was one hell of a story, I am glad you scored!
Aloha,
Zen
Fabulous!
Thanks, Mom. I love you.
Your Facebook pics and posts keep me in touch with NS, but this is incredible writing and so inspirational. Keeps my dreams alive. For now surfing Woolacombe, that’s closest but very cold....but no doubt see you one day soon back on NS, In the meant time, I ll turn to Eternal Return for my daily reflection. Say hi to Roger. 🙏
Mahalo Nui, Petra. I'm very encouraged that you enjoy the writing and for the positive feedback. More to come. And I'll be sure to pass your Aloha on to Big Rog.
This is why I signed up. These stories. It’s a place I’ll never go. At least not like that. It’s not my journey to take. I’m glad you went.
More to come. Thank you for your reading and compliments. Tell me what you want to read about. Aloha!