Do you still have that 5’10” Quad? Sounds like that’s a board that really means something to you. After reading that, I feel like I really understand where that drive, respect, and commitment that you have for big waves comes from now. It all starts somewhere for those individuals who seek large waves for one reason or another. Seems like that day was your first real taste of large powerful waves and your quest for more in better places. Your story of that first taste got me reminiscing. I was not quite as fortunate as you, as a child growing up, with no ocean near by or even the knowledge of what a surfboard was. It wasn’t until I arrived in Hawaii and had been there for three years before I even thought about surfing. But after my first attempt, I was hooked and determined to just surf. My first year at HLC, 1989, was all about swimming and making good grades, and when I could squeeze it in, I’d surf. I always envied you and some of the other guys at school. You had the means and the ability to commit yourself to surfing. What a lifestyle!! I completely respect you for that. Commitment, in any arena, is something to respect. You immersed yourself in a lifestyle and created a commitment based on pure love for SURF. Your writings paint such a vivid picture, almost as if I was there. Thanks for your work!
You are such a great writer Andy! You make the water come alive for me and you know how much that means!
Do you still have that 5’10” Quad? Sounds like that’s a board that really means something to you. After reading that, I feel like I really understand where that drive, respect, and commitment that you have for big waves comes from now. It all starts somewhere for those individuals who seek large waves for one reason or another. Seems like that day was your first real taste of large powerful waves and your quest for more in better places. Your story of that first taste got me reminiscing. I was not quite as fortunate as you, as a child growing up, with no ocean near by or even the knowledge of what a surfboard was. It wasn’t until I arrived in Hawaii and had been there for three years before I even thought about surfing. But after my first attempt, I was hooked and determined to just surf. My first year at HLC, 1989, was all about swimming and making good grades, and when I could squeeze it in, I’d surf. I always envied you and some of the other guys at school. You had the means and the ability to commit yourself to surfing. What a lifestyle!! I completely respect you for that. Commitment, in any arena, is something to respect. You immersed yourself in a lifestyle and created a commitment based on pure love for SURF. Your writings paint such a vivid picture, almost as if I was there. Thanks for your work!
Tom Stanford